What I learnt travelling solo in the safest country in the world for women
Flashbulbs going off, ears assaulted by loud noises, and a chaotic heaving of people: it reminded me of being caught in a mosh pit more than a night out in a pub. Even so, I'd have to admit that, until that point – the moment my insides started to jar – I'd been quite enjoying myself.
As a middle-aged woman who hadn't packed glamorous evening wear, I wasn't certain if I had signed up for it. Don't worry, the organisers had reassured me that the group would be large, the average age around 35, and it was not uncommon for retired individuals to be part of it.
I signed up and while the final destination wasn't quite my cup of tea, I'd had an interesting time chatting in a bar with a mix of people, including a couple of charming Germans, a melodious Indian entrepreneur, some local Zurich residents, an Ecuadorian-Swiss individual and a bloke from Swindon. Quite a nice departure from another night spent on my own.
Since 2020, an increasing number of women have been embarking on solo travel, with a significant proportion, estimated to be over 80 per cent, comprising female travellers alone. Some of these women are unmarried, while many others have partners whose interests do not align with their own desires to travel.
Pursuant to iVisa, taking into account crime and gender-based violence levels, Global Peace Index ranking, and overall cordiality, Switzerland is deemed the safest country for solo female travellers in 2024.
Brilliant, and quite predictable. Nonetheless, I pondered, would individual travel in this country still be enjoyable? Would its illustrious scenery appear as visually striking when not accompanied by someone? Weren't there solo-friendly activities that wouldn't break the bank? Was it feasible to order a small amount of fondue? I chose to leave my partner behind and embarked on a timeless Swiss rail journey to discover the answers.
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– a great way to get a feel for the place and meet like-minded people. Our guide Reiner took me through the historic old town, into the Alsace region, over the river to the Baden-Württemberg state and back to Switzerland once more. “Basel is a cool city,” Reiner said matter-of-factly. “It's the epitome of laid-back Switzerland.” Just what you need when exploring on your own.
A classic pub maximising fondue with a welcoming atmosphere for all patrons, including solo visitors.
My small saucepan was full to the top, filled with a wickedly tasty mixture of cheeses. Since I was on my own, I had to balance eating and stirring simultaneously, but I was free from the social worry of dipping into the sauce twice.
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In preference to the tourist trains of the Bernina Express, I opted for the local Albula and Bernina lines, which offered a regular train service without the need for advance reservations. The carriages were not designated as panorama cars, however the windows were generously sized, and the lack of passengers meant I had space to sit comfortably.
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I may have appeared slightly pretentious, staring out of the window with a far-off look on my face and jotting down notes. As we edged our way over the Bernina Pass, I cracked open a small bottle of wine I'd purchased from a local shop. There are no rules prohibiting drinking onboard, but it still felt rather mischievous regardless.
One thing I didn’t have to concern myself with was communication. Messages highlighting the journey's key points were provided in multiple languages, such as English; when we passed into the Ticino from Graubünden, German became secondary to Italian.
The line comes to an end in Tirano, which is just across the border in Italy. Would solo travel be much different here? It was certainly cheaper - people-watching coffees in cafes cost €1 as opposed to £4, whereas in Switzerland they cost £4.50. However, the trains were less reliable; my initial one was actually cancelled. It wasn't overly concerning, but in general, you don't want to be left hanging around stations for extended periods on your own - one of the advantages of using punctual Swiss trains.
Finally leaving Tirano, my train chugged through valleys to reach Lake Como, where I stopped off in Lecco. I felt perfectly safe here as well, and relieved to have avoided the summer crowds. There was still a pleasant hum of activity in the old centre, but the ferry boats were largely deserted and it was easy to get a table at a restaurant. I had dinner at Usteria, a non-touristy eatery with reasonable prices, where I was grateful not to have to share the homemade ice cream.
Not long after, I found myself back in Switzerland, boarding a train that traversed Lake Lugano en route to Locarno, situated on the picturesque shores of Lake Maggiore. There was a running event in full swing, which would have been a great way to blend in with the locals, but after taking in the sophisticated charm of this lakeside city, I had a train to catch.
The Gotthard Railway, which began operating in 1882, traverses the Alps, marking the end of my scenic journey through Switzerland, with Zurich as my final destination.
Despite a dreary day, the scenery was certainly not a letdown: the rain had filled the waterfalls, and mist hovered above the woods in a picturesque haze. I was on a standard local train, not a tourist train, and yet it was populated as we made our way north from the shores of Lake Lucerne. I exchanged a smile with the lady sitting beside me, and even gave a friendly glance at the smelly dog in her handbag. However, with a few exceptions, passengers mostly kept to themselves.
Perhaps more reserved Switzerland isn't the most ideal place for initiating conversations with people you don't know – unless, that is, you join a pub crawl, of course. However, if solitude is what you're looking for, the country does excel at providing a solo female with a safe, peaceful, and breathtaking experience.
Sarah Baxter is travelling with travel specialists who specialise in trip options without flying Byway Phone number: 020 4525 6215. A nine-day trip, which includes Basel, the Rhaetian Railway, Locarno and the Gotthard Panorama Line, starts from £1,639 per person, including accommodation and rail travel.
The Zurich Pub Crawl Held each Saturday at 9pm, admission prices are from £22 per person, or £27 per person when including a pre-crawl language exchange. Basel Bike Tours cost from £120pp
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