The controversial plans to turn a tiny Welsh village into a £7m tourist attraction
As you approach the National Park, you're greeted by the sounds of rushing and crashing water long before you start walking. The area, often called "Waterfall Country", features a complex network of deep, dramatic gorges carved out by six rivers rich in waterfalls, each one lined with walking trails. Many consider this region to offer the greatest variety of waterfalls in such a small area within the UK.
In South Wales, Waterfall Country is already a favourite among tourists. However, a new £7 million development set to be built could make it even more travelled within the area, attracting both car and foot traffic. This may lead to divided opinions within the local community.
When I embarked on the Elidir Trail, named after a monk in Welsh legend who became lost in these rugged woods and discovered a fairy kingdom, I noticed a surge in visitors to Waterfall Country was evident. On a grey January day, cars lined both sides of the road for several hundred yards before the trailhead, and the path to the enchanting Sgwd Gwladus waterfall was busier than any other I'd seen in the national park, apart from the famous Pen y Fan peak.
It is said that these rapidly flowing rivers – the Nedd Fechan, Pyrddin, Mellte, Hepste, Sychryd, and Nant Gwrelych – with their steep banks overgrown with dense foliage and featuring numerous caves, shaded by dark overhangs, formed the basis of the mythical realm into which the monk Elidir was led.
Finding a peaceful spot to indulge in tales of secret fairy kingdoms was challenging on the trail's more popular lower portion. However, the lesser-used upper trail wound its way dramatically past a series of further secluded yet equally thunderous waterfalls, and a dense, ancient rainforest led by Celtic flora stretched out on either side, thickly overgrown with moss and liverworts. In this setting, the scenery made it less difficult to accept such mythological ideas.
"Some parts of these rivers are more secluded, while others draw bigger groups," said Mark Soanes, who runs a outdoor adventure company based in Neath and organises hiking, canyoning and climbing excursions in Waterfall Country.
After the pandemic, we noticed a significant surge in visitors from further afield, arriving in the area in non-traditional ways. What's become apparent is some people aren't treating the local landscape with the respect it deserves.
“I'm not against improving any facility, but we need to look at the finer points. The local community must believe their concerns are being taken into account when we expand. By running smaller group activities, we can relieve some of the congestion on Pontneddfechan's roads, which aren't equipped to handle large traffic flows: we do this, for instance, by bringing in a minibus, so our users don't all come by car.”
Outside the historic Angel Inn, a beamed tavern situated at the beginning of the path to the waterfalls, I had a chat with Rie Davies, a local walker from Swansea.
I've been visiting for years," she said. "I think it's lovely, and there are loads of footpaths for my dog to explore. However, I've noticed it's getting busier and it's often mayhem trying to park. I get annoyed, even though I don't even live nearby, so I support a plan that sorts out the parking woes. As for the second development, I think Pontneddfechan has a lovely unspoilt village feel to it at the moment, so I do hope it won't lose that.
According to local councillor Simon Anthony Knoyle, the plan's goal is to enhance the facilities for local residents and the people who already visit the waterfalls. "It's about managing the existing flow of visitors rather than specifically drawing in new ones," he noted. "Historically, we've had problems with visitors parking in residents' driveways and littering. We're trying to address those concerns." Knoyle mentioned that the plan also includes new accommodation, aimed at families, as the Glynneath area is different from other nearby outdoor activity centres in lacking tourist-oriented lodgings. His hope is that overnight visitors will bring revenue back into the community.
It is not everyone's opinion that community needs are being taken into account, to say the least. “A condition of the Levelling-Up Fund is that the community is involved from the beginning and we weren't," Annie Evans, a resident, pointed out to me.
They had conducted all the necessary planning beforehand without consulting anyone. When they did go ahead with a consultation, the majority, 28, objected while merely seven expressed their support. Everyone is well aware that building a new car park won't deter people from parking somewhere they shouldn't be. Visitors will simply find ways to bypass the proposed parking charge, continuing to park erratically and obstruct driveways and gateways. Furthermore, we already have approxiamately 100 tourist accommodation options available locally, rendering additional capacity unnecessary.
The irony is that several residents, who were seeking more discreet permission for their own projects, were turned down, while I myself had a bid for a small, low-profile extension to my front sun room rejected. It's clear that the community's concerns have been disregarded, as over 90% of us are opposed to the development.
There are worries, as well, about how the local wildlife might be impacted. The Celtic rainforest covering the hills here is a very rare and highly varied ecosystem, and tourists venturing off the marked trails or discarding litter can threaten the fragile state of the environment.
"For a sustainable tourism to be achieved, it's a delicate juggling act," says Brecon Beacons Tourism, the national park's tourism authority.
It's about welcoming visitors in a way that respects and conservation of the environment while also ensuring the local community gets a fair share of the benefits. The Waterfalls area boasts stunning natural beauty, and it's our duty to preserve and improve it for future generations.
“By backing the communities that reside in and work here, we can guarantee this unique location continues to be an inviting destination for tourists both now and in future years. We believe this plan represents a substantial step towards realising this objective.”
It seems highly likely that the developments will continue to put the spotlight on a lovely area within the Brecon Beacons National Park that has historically received less exposure than other places in the area. That's a positive outcome, assuming it's done properly.
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