Forget Florence and Siena – this is Tuscany’s most enchanting city
Most places have their own characteristics. Not so Lucca. In 1902, the writer Hilaire Belloc simply described Lucca as "good", whilst the novelist Henry James noted it "was overflowing with ease, plenty, beauty, interest, and good examples."
For many, this Tuscan destination remains an unblemished gem, boasting the ideal blend of Italy's iconic allure – art, architecture, delicious cuisine, and renowned wines – alongside the enchanting, timeless appeal of a bygone era, carefully preserved and unchanged behind the safety of its medieval city walls.
It's ideal for a short getaway – Pisa Airport is a mere 35 minutes' drive away – or as a conveniently-located starting point for longer excursions. Whatever your plans, Lucca is unlikely to fall short. In fact, it's the kind of place, I imagine, many people may fantasise about living in for real.
Walk the walk
Simply taking a stroll through Lucca's streets is enough to experience its laid-back charm, main attractions and many medieval tucked-away spots. Be sure to stop first at Piazza San Michele, the site of the ancient Roman forum and home to the lovely San Michele, with its stunning 12th-century Romanesque frontage - an exquisite symphony of pillars, slender columns and ornate details that rivals the finest in the continent.
Intriguing on the outside, with its ornately carved façade, and on the inside, boasting Jacopo della Quercia's stunning Renaissance masterpiece, Ilaria del Carretto's tomb (1407-10), a prized work from Tuscany; also, have a look at the Volto Santo, a mesmerising cedar crucifix, said to be a true likeness of Christ, carved by Nicodemus, who supposedly witnessed the Crucifixion.
Pay a small additional sum to visit the cathedral museum and the captivating Roman and other archaeological remnants located beneath the nearby church of San Giovanni e Reparata.
which you can climb, including the holm oaks that grow on its summit, making it one of the city's most famous sights.
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Step outside of the piazza and you're onto Via Fillungo, Lucca's beautifully maintained main shopping street, and just a short walk from San Frediano, one of the city's breathtaking churches. A striking 13th-century mosaic is uniquely featured on its exterior, and the interior boasts intricately executed frescoed chapels and the breathtaking 12th-century carved font, Fonte Lustrale.
The walls
This historic structure has never been used in a heated or aggressive manner, but it is one of its most notable aspects; it is surrounded by a broad expanse of green and topped by trees and a car-free path that circles the old town for nearly four miles.
One of the places also worth visiting places.
£5 (£4.20) per hour or £20 (£16.80) per day.
The Puccini trail
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For details of daily concerts at San Giuseppe's auditorium.
Near Torre di Lago and Lucca, theatre houses present full-scale opera performances, which frequently take place outdoors.
Farther afield
With limited time available, the top choices are Villa Reale and Villa Torrigiani.
Lucca provides an excellent base for day trips to other parts of Tuscany. The journey to Florence takes just over an hour and 20 minutes, with direct trains running roughly hourly, costing approximately €8.40 or £7.10. The train route passes through Prato and Pistoia, both of which offer fascinating historic centres to discover.
Alight at Piazza al Serchio and take the line back for a scenic route through the Garfagnana mountains to the north. In summer, it's just a 20-minute hop to the seaside resort of Viareggio.
If you desire to ascend the Tower.
Eating there
Lucca's most renowned eating destination, established in 1782; while not reasonably priced, the service is refined and there are numerous classic Lucchese dishes on offer.
It is a favourite among locals for its authentic trattoria atmosphere, reasonable prices (the set menus at €20 and €24 are a good choice) and dependable Tuscan cuisine.
Asparagus soup in the springtime is definitely worth the wait, and it also offers good value.
Staying there
beyond £56, there are other established mid-range options.
Getting there
Every 30 minutes, or less (£3.90/£4.62 for a 28-minute journey).
Further information
You can find a vast amount of detailed information on Lucca in English.
a vibrant assortment of antique and household knick-knack stalls.
This narrative was first made publicly available in May 2023 and has since undergone revisions and enhancements.
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