Why is everyone so happy in Finland? I went there to find out

A woman wearing a soft, woven pixie hat pours water onto heated rocks by a roaring fire. Steam swirls vigorously around us, and she hands out bundles of birch poles, one to each of us.

"It's great for getting the circulation going!" she says with a smile, as she slaps the leaves vigorously over her shoulders and back.

Conceding to my typically British doubts, I join in, flapping my drippy limbs with the scented bunches, but soon the heat and perspiration become unbearable, and I push my way out of the door, luxuriating in the wonderfully cool waters of the Kymi River.

Sauna culture complements fundamentally basic needs such as eating and sleeping. In a nation with a populace of almost 5.5 million individuals, it appears there are roughly 3.5 million saunas – just like the amount of vehicles.

In days past, it was common for a family to build a sauna before constructing a house. Women delivered their babies in these saunas, and they also facilitated the preparation of the deceased for burial. As I learned from Jaana, with whom I shared another sauna in Helsinki, many of the small cottages found on Finland's islands and lake shores, often used for summer holidays by Finnish families, are rather simple. “They might not have running water or electricity, but they will all have a sauna,” she notes.

It's the place where I completely switch off and don't have to think about a thing. Our family's country cottage is my haven, and I adore the ritual of setting up the sauna – getting the fire going, chopping the wood and so forth. As the sauna heats up, I often sit and read a book, finding it a soothing and therapeutic escape from it all.

It appears the Finns have uncovered a secret to happiness. According to the recently released World Happiness Report, Finland has secured the top spot in global happiness for a record-breaking seventh consecutive time.

Finland's social landscape is remarkably even, with a nationwide public education system widely regarded as one of the globe's foremost; no private schools are in operation. Taxation is a sizeable aspect of daily life, yet residents tend to accept this willingly in recognition of the net benefits that result.

In 2017, the city presented its residents with a beautifully crafted public library, boasting an impressive architectural design, equipped with rooms and facilities such as 3D printing facilities available for the use of visitors. The library also features state-of-the-art music studios, comprehensively furnished and free of charge for anyone to utilise.

But our selection is unique, featuring goods individually owned and proudly sold, with local products that have been uniquely designed and manufactured in the area.

Local cuisine also plays a key role. In a country with a short growing season, home cooks and restaurants like Helsinki's Natura adapt their menus to feature seasonal and locally sourced ingredients.

Our timing coincided with the initial harvest of the new potatoes, wild strawberries and herbs of the season. In about a month, cloudberries and lingonberries will be in season, followed by mushrooms and cranberries. Niina, the owner of Vaaku, the island restaurant, informed me that "everyone has the right to forage anywhere. You cannot fell any trees or dig up any plants, but you can pick as much as you like."

Leaving government policy aside, Finland's extensive areas of green and blue space contribute significantly to its overall sense of liveliness. My initial days were spent driving for an hour east from Helsinki, staying at a campsite located between the towns of Kotka and Hamina.

The glass walls overlooking the river created an illusion that the bed was gently floating on the flowing water. I had a delightful meal of grilled salmon, accompanied by salad and the first fresh new potatoes of the year. I spent my time walking along woodland paths, paddling through the quiet backwaters and hiking through forests of birch, spruce and pine, as the soothing song of cuckoos filled the air.

I visited the island of Ulko-Tammio, a small isle in the extensive Finnish archipelago off the southern coast. A forward-thinking tourist authority locally has created a unique selling point by designating the island "phone-free". This initiative, perceived as a marketing gimmick, has instead become a core part of the island's character.

North of Finland, one can find forests teeming with wildlife that's vanished from the majority of Europe. For those seeking an exhilarating encounter with a wolf, a bear, or the enigmatic wolverine in its natural habitat, Lassi's camp, situated on the Russian border amidst the trees, is an excellent starting point.

Lassi Rautiainen was a key figure in establishing wilderness photography as a form of wildlife tourism, placing his hides in optimal locations so that photographers can take top-notch pictures of these renowned species. He places food out too, something that made me feel a bit uneasy. "It's no different from putting food out for the birds in your garden," he reasons. "The animals only turn up if they wish to. The food is an incentive, but no guarantee."

On warm summer evenings, the animals are more active at night. I made myself comfortable in the hide at 5 o'clock with some water, a sleeping bag and snacks, ready for a 15-hour stint. The clear, pale sky visible through the slotted windows was a constantly changing palette of greys and blues.

I gazed out at the meadow, bounded by trees, with the soft, white cotton grass swaying in the gentle breeze. Suddenly, a wolf materialised. Elegantly shaped, with piercing amber eyes, it lurked warily, but as its caution eased, it allowed me to come closer and observe it in detail.

A bear drifted at the edge of the woods. Two additional wolves emerged. Following a confrontation, the bear was driven off and the wolves assumed command. I was spellbound, just sitting there, savouring the opportunity to watch the passing of night and the unfolding of morning without distraction or interruption.

Elsie and her husband, who hails from Scotland, had recently taken charge of Lentiira, a small cluster of wooden holiday cottages positioned between the shoreline of a lake and a vibrant wildflower meadow teeming with bees. On midsummer eve, we congregated as a mixed group of residents and guests of various ages to sing as the Finnish flag was hoisted and a bonfire lit to mark the celebration.

A stargazing tour guide, typically active during darker months, arranged a luxury steam experience for his guests. He started a fire in a smoke-filled chamber, which was a rather inauspicious choice for an atmosphere-enhancing activity.

Then the smoke was allowed to dissipate and the room was hosed down, resulting in a steamy fog of heat. We found ourselves feeling slightly dazed, much like when one has been picked up from a vantage point overlooking the sea, inside the soot-encrusted interior, as we let the warm, smoky atmosphere envelop us until the cool, dark waters of the lake beckoned us to take a dip. Then we floated on the calm surface of the lake beneath the midnight sun, observing swallows still attending to their nests underneath the eaves of our cottages.

I entirely agree that swallows only nest in homes where people actually enjoy living.

Essentials

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Getting there

It has flights from Heathrow, Manchester and Edinburgh to Helsinki from £166 return, inclusive of all taxes and charges.

Staying there

In Helsinki, a stay can be made at Hotel St George, with prices beginning at £310 per night. For a comprehensive review and booking, visit telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/europe/finland/helsinki/hotels/hotel-st-george/

This package is available from £245.

In Arctic Lakeland, she visited as a guest of Wild Taiga (wildtaiga.fi/en/), who arrange wildlife tours and photography expeditions starting at £85 per person.

More information

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